Our Craft'woman'ship

Weaving in India dates back to as early as 5000 years; when this traditional method of textile production was used for the making of luxurious clothing for the Indian royalty. It is the art of interlacing yarns and threads at right angles to form a fabric. The longitudinal threads are called the ‘warp’ and lateral threads are called the ‘weft.’ A land of diverse indigenous fashion, weaving in India is varied, with different regions adopting patterns and designs unique to their environment. Depending upon the region they belong to, weavers divide themselves into communities such as bunkar, julaha, salvi and ansari. 

Here at Ruaab, we’ve formed a network of weavers from Phulia, West Bengal; and Bhagalpur, Bihar to showcase their skills and preserve this organic art form. Ruaab consciously works towards creating a unique garment sourcing and production model that is owned and managed by women producers, ensuring a transparent and ethical environment. This eliminates the malpractices of middlemen and ensures that our women get their dues, which they rightfully deserve. Ruaab aims at providing meaningful employment to artisan women and enabling them in creating a secure future through benefits like micro-credit and pension, social security, vocational training and children education, legal sessions and linkages to various government schemes.

Chikan, in the literal sense, means ’embroidery’. Chikankari is Lucknow’s most ancient and well-known form of traditional embroidery style, believed to be introduced by the Mughals. Intricate designs are delicately worked on to the garment, giving it an endlessly subtle, classy feel that modern embroidery techniques lack. While traditionally done on muslin cloth (mulmul), it’s now also used on georgette, chiffon, crepe, silk, polyester and cotton. It involves three types of needlework techniques- flat work, cut work and shadow/ embossed work. Traditional embroidery stitches include taipchi (running stitch), bakhia (herringbone stitch), daraz (applique), phanda (French knots) and zanzeer (chain stitch). The motifs in Chikankari are known as Chikan buta. Most common are phool buta and keri buta. The vine creepers are called bel. Types include Ari Bel  (diagonally inclined creepers). Khari bel (vertically inclined creepers) and Leti bel (horizontally inclined creepers).

Through constant effort and practice, our bens excel in embroidery. 

 

Aari work is a type of embroidery work that is done by stretching the fabric tightly over a wooden frame (aari). A pen-like needle, that resembles a crochet needle is used to do the intrinsic Aari work. It’s popularly done in Delhi, Agra,  Varanasi, Lucknow and Bhopal. Originated during the Mughal era, Aari artwork is popular for its fine and delicate thread work.

 Zardozi is a type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery on a silk, satin, or velvet fabric base.  Zardozi in India as an embroidery form dates back to the period of the Rigveda and prospered during Akbar’s rule in the Mughal era, when pure silver wires and real gold leaves were used to embroider.  Zardozi is popular in the Indian cities of Lucknow, Farrukhabad, Chennai and Bhopal. Designs are often created using gold and silver threads and can incorporate pearls, beads, and precious stones. Metal embellishment materials like sitara, dabka, zari, salma, and beads are used to enhance and beautify the fabric.